If you haven’t heard of Zambia, don’t feel bad. Many people haven’t. This landlocked country of 20 million people doesn’t often make the news. What it does is produce a lot of copper and amazing safari experiences.
Zambia boasts 20 national parks and 34 game management areas which, together, cover about 30% of the country. Experienced travelers may be familiar with some of the popular ones like South Luangwa, Kafue and Mosi-oa-Tunya, home to the massive Victoria Falls. There are also unique off-the-beaten path parks like Liuwa Plain, North Luangwa, Lower Zambezi and Kasanka, home to the largest mammal migration (bats!) on earth.
On our recent safari, my family focused on Mosi-oa-Tunya (the smoke that thunders) to view the huge Zambezi River as it becomes the largest sheet of falling water in the world, then traveled downstream for a fantastic safari in Lower Zambezi National Park.
The Zambezi forms the border between Zambia and Zimbabwe and the two countries share the Falls, albeit with different views. In May, the falls are pumping and the flow produced incredible spray, which creates “the smoke that thunders” and amazing rainbows, double rainbows and moonbows (lunar rainbows). The Zambia side of the Falls, centered around the small town of Livingstone, is quieter and less crowded than the Zimbabwe side and we enjoyed a relaxing stay at Thorntree River Lodge, set right on the banks of the river inside the park.
Thorntree is about 20 minutes from the Falls – close enough to be convenient but just far enough to be peaceful and quiet. Our guide was top notch and we enjoyed game drives, boating and a Falls tour during our stay. A highlight was microlighting over and around the Falls. Microlights are basically go-karts with a hang glider wing on the top and a big fan on the back. It’s 100% open air with just the pilot in the front and you strapped in the back. During the 15-minute trip, you fly over the river then circle the Falls, catching every view possible. Unfortunately, you can’t take your camera for safety reasons, but the operator will provide the chance to buy still photos and video after you land.
From Livingstone, we flew two hours to Lusaka then 30 minutes down to Lower Zambezi National Park. Located along the northern bank of the Zambezi River directly opposite Zimbabwe’s Mana Pools National Park, this great park includes winterthorn dotted floodplains, woodlands and acacia forests. The varied terrain supports a variety of wildlife, most notably hippos, elephants, lions, buffalo, wild dogs, leopards and giraffes.
Lower Zambezi is one of the few parks where you can combine land and water-based safaris consistently and that’s why we went – to combine land-based game drives, lots of walking and game viewing and fishing on the river. For fishing, we were after the famous tiger fish with its menacing teeth and bad attitude. While the fishing was slower than expected (it’s best September to November), we did manage to catch one tiger fish and several other species.
Best of all, going fishing got us out on the river every day and that proved rewarding in other ways including seeing two bull elephants play in the river like teenagers at a pool party; viewing countless pods of hippos honking and snorting; seeing great bird life like pied kingfishers, hooded vultures, herons and egrets; and enjoying a surprise sundowner – complete with campfire, full bar and appetizers – on an uninhabited island.
We enjoyed a morning walking safari nearly every day and truly enjoyed and appreciated being able to get out of the vehicle, get some exercise and learn about animal tracks and flora from the outstanding walking guides who pair with armed park rangers to keep you safe in the bush.
During our visit to Lower Zambezi National Park we enjoyed a variety of accommodations all set on the Zambezi River. Kutali is a simple, traditional safari camp with just six rooms, each with an ensuite, open-air bathroom, and a shaded open-air lounge/dining area. There’s no air conditioning or WiFi and the food is simple but delicious.
We also stayed at Anabezi, a larger and more luxurious camp down river. Here, there are 12 chalets spread out along the river with a wooden walkway connecting them in the back. There are two pools and each unit has a plunge pool. The food was excellent and the guides were too. Fairly recently the camp was purchased by the owners of South Africa’s Dulini Collection and they are in the midst of updating the camp.
Our favorite stop was Lolebezi, the “new kid on the block/river.” If you enjoy luxury, this is the place for you as the main areas of the camp are expansive and creatively designed, the food is gourmet and the guiding is fantastic. The five suites (including a family suite) and villa are huge and luxurious and offer air conditioning, which can be very useful in the hotter months. The bathroom in our suite was bigger than our whole bedroom at home. There’s also a spa, gym, game room and kids club.
So, whether your budget allows for moderate, deluxe or luxury accommodations, Lower Zambezi has an option perfect for you. Our team will help you decide what accommodation is best for your customized safari. You can visit knowing that you’ll see great game and have a wonderful time on land and water.
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Photos courtesy AAC President Kent Redding, Thorntree River Lodge, Anabezi and Lolebezi