Are you the type of traveler who wants to go where nobody else has gone? Then why not consider Madagascar?
The world’s fourth largest island welcomes just 10,000 Americans annually but that’s not the only reason you should visit. The list of Madagascar’s attractions could fill pages, but here are just a few:
On my recent visit, I got to experience all of the above and more. I loved just about every minute of it and I’d go back without hesitation.
Most visits to Madagascar start in the capital city of Antananarivo (Tana for short), as did ours. This sprawling, noisy city of 3.5 million bustles with activity. It’s the country’s economic and government center, with a newish airport and modern hotels to welcome visitors. For me, one night here is enough as there’s so much to see in other parts of this large country.
Getting to Madagascar’s remote parks, reserves and beaches is the biggest challenge for visitors as the limited road network is often in poor condition, making for very long drives. Commercial flights are available to some cities, but the national carrier is unreliable and often delays or cancels flights. The best way to get around is by private charter.
That’s how we traveled to most areas, the first of which was Isalo National Park. After landing near Ilakaka we visited rudimentary sapphire mines, reminiscent of gold rush days where locals dig for precious gems with shovels. Next we visited a traditional village of the Bara people who are pastoralists, spending their days tending to their zebu (a type of Malagasy cattle) and other livestock.
Once in the park, we enjoyed lots of hiking, including a nature walk to a natural swimming pool where we cooled off. On the way, we saw brown lemurs, ring tailed lemurs, enormous stick bugs and many birds including the gray-headed love bird and yellow-billed kite.
The best place to stay here is Isalo Rock Lodge, which features 60 well-appointed rooms, a large pool and great food.
From here, we flew back to Tana and drove four hours to Andisibe, one of the best areas for lemur viewing in the country. Visiting Mantadia National Park’s old growth forest and nearby Analamazaotra Mantadia Reserve is a nature lover’s delight. Here, we saw some of the 11 lemur species who call the area home, including the largest lemur the Indri Indri, which makes amazingly loud calls. Great places to stay here include Mantadia and Manjarano Lodges.
After driving back to Tana, we then flew by private charter to Anjajavy for a stay at the Relais & Chateaux accredited Anjajavy le Lodge. I loved this place and who wouldn’t? It’s set on a 10,000-acre private reserve right on the ocean with no roads leading in or out. The nearest town is 100 miles away, and it offers an amazing bush and beach combo. Here, you can spend your days seeking one of five lemur species, including Coquerel’s sifakas and northern spotted lemurs along with reintroduced giant Aldabra tortoises and many types of lizards, chameleons and birds. You can also enjoy miles of pristine beaches and coastline providing access to snorkeling, boating and more.
Next, we took a private charter to Nosy Be, an island near the northern tip of the country. This region is probably the most famous beach area in Madagascar and rightly so. There are amazing islands and coastline in every direction, and water activities like snorkeling, diving and fishing are plentiful, but there’s much more here.
Our first stop was a visit to Lokobe Community Reserve. I was surprised to discover that this was one of my favorite stops of the whole trip. This small reserve receives just 50 visitors per day and everything is local. The nature walks are run by local young men who grew up in the area. Craft stalls are operated by the local women. Our delicious lunch was prepared and served by the local community. But the best thing was the wildlife – most notably the tiny wildlife including the smallest chameleon in the world (about the size of your thumb nail) and the Nosy Be mouse lemur, one of the smallest lemurs in the world, weighing in at just two ounces!
From here we took a half-day marine tour with Baleines Rand’eau during which we scoured the sea looking for whale sharks (who were around but were being shy), then snorkeling with devil rays (out in abundance) and numerous green sea turtles. Afterward we enjoyed another local lunch on the beach.
Baleines Rand’eau supports the Madagascar Whale Shark Project Foundation (MWSP) by collecting whale shark data since 2015. MWSP’s main scientific objective is to establish the occurrence, residency and population structure of whale sharks off Nosy Be through photo identification. They also investigate whale shark movements and feeding ecology, collaborating with partners across the world. Visitors can join the project for a day on a dedicated research boat, accompanied by founder Stella Diamant, as well as the rest of the science team, including Malagasy students and scientific partners. Guests can also visit Korai’s nursery site, with a coral planter.
After our day at sea, we enjoyed two nights at Tsara Komba, an eight-room boutique lodge right on the ocean on a small island, Nosy Komba. Here, the chalets are built into the hill, each offering unobstructed views of the ocean. Guests have access to a small, white sand beach, perfect for sun bathing, swimming and kayaking. The food is delicious and the friendly staff offer special touches like locally flavored rum and eight different kinds of juices.
From Tsara Komba, we helicoptered over the mainland to Madagascar’s most luxurious and exclusive private island resort, Miavana. This place defines five star – it’s 15 one-, two- and three-bedroom villas each come with their own butler, golf carts, bikes, pools and more. The resort offers ATVs, several speed boats, an extensive wine cellar and full dive center including scuba, snorkeling, kite surfing and fishing gear. It’s the perfect spot for anyone who enjoys the finer things in life.
Madagascar has something for everyone – from adventurous nature lovers to discerning beach aficionados. If you want to visit for yourself, contact the Journey Specialists at AAC! Subscribe to our newsletter below for more safari information and inspiration.
Photos courtesy AAC President Kent Redding